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Learn more. Add gift options. Have one to sell? Sell on Amazon. Image Unavailable Image not available for Color:.The conversion went well, and the robustness of the printer improved considerably. A few months ago, an accident in connecting a power cable caused the need to replace the motherboard.Anet A8 3D Printer Essential Upgrades
In particular, the operation of the Y-axis, with the entire heated bed moving back and forward, caused noise and vibration when printing at high speeds. This time I chose a CoreXY style with two stepper motors working together for moving the X and Y axes, and the heated bed only moving up and down on the Z axis. One of the most popular such designs is the HypeCube Evolution that uses aluminum profile extrusions for robust construction that allows for print volumes of xx In order to minimize the cost of the conversion I thought to use as many of the existing Anet parts as possible.
Luckily I was not first to think like that. There is already a similar project, called Anet Evolutionbased on the Hypercube Evolution, but adapted to use the Anet A8 threaded and smooth rods, print bed, and print head, on a profile frame for lower cost. In a future upgrade I might swap the print bed for a larger one without the need of any other modifications.
The basic parts are in place but I need to do the wiring and because I want to do a neat job at that, it will take me some more time. He writes about technology, his family and cats, about life, the universe and everything, here.
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Close Menu [ home ]. So I based my conversion on this, with a few changes: To better fit the electronics at the bottom of the frame, I used longer vertical extrusions mm instead of mm and extrusions for the base. I changed the print head because I have been using a E3D V6 head in a Bowden design for a long time and did not want to switch back to the Anet MK8 direct extruder. To Do List: Decide on the placement of the Power Supply at the back or at the bottom of the frame Wiring everything neatly Adding a second acrylic panel on top of the electronics, with corresponding holes for cooling fans Mounting the Graphics Controller on the lower front left side of the frame Incorporating a Filament Spool Holder, probably on the lower right side of the frame Adding a second pair of vertical smooth rods on the right side of the Z-Frame Adding a LED strip on the top edge of the frame Decide on the placement of the Pi-Cam Share this: Click to share on Twitter Opens in new window Click to share on Facebook Opens in new window.
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Not Specified In this post I share the details of the first of two significant upgrades to achieve better quality prints overall and be able to print with ABS filament. The first major upgrade was to swap the Anet A8 original acrylic frame with an aluminum frame.
As I mentioned in my previous post, the Anet A8 makes good prints out of the box, if assembled properly.
How to DIY the Anet A8 3D Prusa i3 printer
The acrylic frame is not rigid enough to reduce the inherent wobble and vibrations of the Anet A8. I found my solution posted in Thingiverse. Follow the link to find the bill of materials, build guide and STL files.
A pretty straight forward design requiring no metal cutting and fairly simple assembly with relatively easy parts to print and readily available hardware. Before I started the AM8 modification, I finished dressing the upgrades I made from the get go while assembling the Anet A8 out of the box. That included soldering for terminals to the new 14 Gauge Silicone Tinned Copper Wiresprinting a bracket to hold the Dual Mosfets video below and new stands for the controller board, a thumb-saving extruder button great upgrade!
Once all these upgrades were printed and mounted with the electronics, I proceeded to dressup the wires with either split loom conduit or the spiral wire wrap that came with the Anet A8.
I had to drill a couple of new holes on the acrylic frame but it was no big deal. I like the fact that it was not a throw-away-later temporary solution. Having completed the initial upgrades and dressed up the wiring, I was ready to safely get started printing the parts for the AM8 aluminum frame modification. Once all parts were printed, I proceeded to assemble the AM8 aluminum frame using the recommended hardware by its designer.
And finally, the fully assembled aluminum frame, with the ABS motor mounts and top braces in black. Orange pieces were printed in Orange PLA. Search for:.GitHub is home to over 40 million developers working together to host and review code, manage projects, and build software together. If nothing happens, download GitHub Desktop and try again.
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This repository contains all necessary upgrades for the Anet A8 to increase its printing quality, sorted by priority and in a form of a step-by-step-for-noobs guide as it was a bit hard to find all the things on the interwebz for me. If you want to use bigger filament diameters, change the pneumatic adapter sizes accordingly. Important: The Z-Axis stepper motors should be replaced with stronger ones, as many users including me had troubles with a stuck Z-axis motor driver that was too weak to liften the X-carriage.
The installation instructions are also available. The Anet A8 is delivered with varying power supplies. If you are unsure on how to connect it, compare your power supply with this photo. The mainboard's schematics are also available at this picture.
IMPORTANT : The connectors for the power cables of the heatbed and extruder on the mainboard are of bad quality, it is important that you connect the cables with some space to the insulation. Otherwise your cable insulation will overheat and burn down. The printing quality troubleshooting guide is also available in case some prints are deformed or broken.
If you can't use another printer, print these parts and immediately upgrade the Anet A8 afterwards, so that later prints will have a better quality. Install the belt tensioners, the belt holders, the t-corners and the z-wobble fixes on your Anet A8 printer.
Note that the x-tensioner requires 2 M5 screws with at least 35mm in length with matching self-sealing nuts. In order to have some space left for not-so-tight belts, use the M5x50 screws there. It is best to buy a GT2 belt set, so that you have bigger cog wheels that you can use for the bowden extruder upgrade :.
Recommended Install a glass plate with clip holders, so that you don't have to use that shitty print tape. When using a glass plate, it is recommended to use a simple glue stick to make things sticky and to print on it as the glass plate itself is too slick for the initial layers of PLA or ABS.Prusa i3 Steel frame.
Painted version Powder coated available. Filament spool holder included. Worldwide shipping! Stainless steel screws to the structure of Prusa i3 Steel.
Blued screws in to the structure of steel Steel i3 Prusa. Rods kit required for assembly of Prusa i3 Steel. CNC cut with high quality. No burrs Chamfer edges to facilitate assembly. Prusa i3 Steel frame made of high quality stainless steel laser cut.
ANET A8 to AM8 Conversion Kit for Metal Frame
Set up your kit, selecting ramps, color printed pieces, heatbed, drivers. MK2 Extruder upgrade! New Black Edition Calibrated rods required for assembly of Prusa i3 Steel. Compatible with bowden or direct extruders. Maximum print area x mm. You can set up your kit, selecting ramps, color printed pieces, heatbed, hotend and drivers. Support multicolor printing! Leadscrews Fully compatible with any filament brand. Made in 3mm steel. Black powder coated.
AM8 3D Printer Extrusion Metal Frame - Full Kit for Anet A8 upgrade Fast Ship
Anet swap frame. Fully compatible whith all componentes. Do you need support to upgrade? Feel free contact us: info orballoprinting.
The new Y-carriage was designed to be compatible with the MK52 24V heatbed. Made in black powder coated steel 3mm. This kit has solved those problems using aluminum profiles. Weight: g. View Showing 1 - 22 of 22 items. Quick view. Add to Wishlist. Add to Compare. Add to cart. Prusa i3 Steel black hardware structure Blued screws in to the structure of steel Steel i3 Prusa.